Hello and welcome to the CJ Daley
Historical Reproductions research center. In this section
of our website you'll find information published
specifically to educate our customers about Civil War
takes many forms. It may be chapters from the US
Quartermaster's Manual, photos and notes for original
Civil War garments or workshops designed to aid in the
reproduction of historic clothing. Some of this
information comes from historians like Fred Gaede and
Jerry Coates who have allowed me to publish information on
my website, some information comes from primary resources
like the National Archives, but it is all well documented
and very informative.
Only through the
free exchange of information can we gain a better
understanding of our nation's past. I encourage you to use
these pages as a resource for your studies and please
inform others about these pages as well. Happy reading and
if you have any questions, please ask
One of the first
units to crest the summit of Little Round Top on July 2,
1863 was the 146th New York Volunteers (Garrard's Tigers).
They did so with brand Zouave new uniforms issued to them
a month earlier on June 3rd. This article will give a
brief description of that uniform. They were formed in
September of 1862, and were one of the few units to muster
in as a regular volunteer unit, but receive zouave status
mid way though the war.
Invalid Corps jacket was to be designed and fashioned in
such a way as to give the members of this new organization
a sense of heightened pride and esprit-de-corps. In fact
this uniform marked the members as cripples and shirkers.
As the regulations for most state, volunteer and U.S.
Regular infantry regiments called for a dark blue coat,
this new garment precluded the wearer from being confused
for regular soldier.
19th Century, vests were an essential part of any
gentlemen's clothing in civilian life. Whether he was a
laborer or a politician, his vest was worn in public with
few exceptions. When enlisting in the army in the 1860's,
most men still desired to wear a vest, although most were
upset to find out the quartermaster did not issue vests to
troops (with the exception of some zouave units). More...
The St. Louis Depot Mounted Services
Artillery Jacket has many of the same features that you
would find on a contract-made mounted services jacket.
However, this garment is not a contract-made item, but
rather a government-produced item. While it has the
standard six-piece body and two-piece sleeve construction
seen on most mounted services jackets, it also has many
features that can be considered anomalies. More...
While capes in
the 21st Century are limited to superheroes, in the 19th
Century they were a common part of men's civilian
clothing. This fashion translated to the military wear for
officers when the war broke in 1861. Clothiers such as
Tiffany and Co, and Brooks Brothers offered capes to their
customers marching off to war.
One of the
most frequently requested items that we are asked to
reproduce are private purchase sack coats. From the
lowliest private to General Grant, commercially produced
sack coats can be seen throughout the war on the backs of
Northern soldiers. One such coat is currently housed in
the collection of Don Troiani of Historical Art Prints.
museum has a collection of original Confederate garments
that are kept in storage. Among those uniforms is a
Columbus Depot jacket with red facings. This jacket was
worn by an officer who was reportedly captured at Port
Every once an
a while a garment comes along that is just extraordinary
enough for me to take notice. Normally trowsers don't make
us scratch our heads or raise our eyebrows, but one pair I
examined earlier this year has. On the surface they don't
appear to be any different than other CS trowsers we've
seen in the past, but a few oddities pop up that make it
interesting enough for us to feature it as our monthly
In response to
hundreds of e-mails from my good friends who find
themselves portraying Confederates of the far west, I
looked into a few jackets to reproduce for our
Trans-Mississippi hobbyists. I have settled on producing
one from Don Troiani's collection. The jacket was
originally worn by a Brit serving in Confederacy who took
the jacket home with him after the war. He then donated
the jacket to the Royal Artillery Museum in 1905 until it
was later sent to the United States in the 1990s.
The Quartermaster called them the "Infantry Uniform Coat".
Soldiers referred to them as the "Dress Coat", "Frock
Coat" or "The Sweat Box". All these terms refer to the
official dress uniform of the Federal army during the
Civil War. Hundreds of thousands of these coats were made
and issued during the war by government arsenals and
contractors throughout the north. One of these contractors
was JB Boylan of Newark, RI. An extant Boylan coat is
currently in the collection of the Gettysburg National
Military Park in Pennsylvania.
One of the most frequently asked questions we get here is
"when are you folks going to make a CS frock." The answer
is, sometime this spring. The coat we'll be making is
based off a coat in a SC museum. We'll have more details
on that in another issue, but this month we thought we'd
feature another coat that we've examined.
For years I've been looking to reproduce a commercial
frock coat. Such a coat could be worn early or late in the
war, east or west and could be worn by just about any
Federal serving from any state. A private collector
recently allowed me to photograph and document a
remarkable coat in his collection.
line and staff officer's throughout the war chose to wear
standard sky blue overcoats, a few officers opted to go
for a more stylish look inspired by the French. While only
a few of these coats exist today, those that do offer us a
great look into the fashion fads on Officer's Row.
I love overcoats. Military or
civilian, Confederate or Federal, capes or hoods, mounted
or foot pattern, I just love them. One of my favorites is
the overcoat for mounted services. These coats not only
served as warm weather outer wear for Engineers, Cavalry
and Artillery, but also saw service in the 1880s serving
troops during the Indian Wars.
Table, showing the
kinds of clothing and camp and garrison equipment which is
baled at the Schuylkill Arsenal, with the quantity of each
article; and the weight, size and cubic feet of each bale.
Clothing is packed in assorted sizes, and the contents
marked on the end of each package. The bales are covered
with stout burlap; first lined with petroleum paper, then
with packing paper, then securely sewed with double thread
and bound with three or four iron hoops according to the
size of the bales, fastened with iron buckles or loops.
A total of 142 contracts for sack coats
were found in the compilation. Some 25 were "For Making &
Trimming," which represented open-ended contracts to
construct coats from material already on hand. This was
usually, but not invariably, material from Schuylkill
Arsenal for coats to be delivered to the Philadelphia
This bibliography has been compiled
by me to help my customers gain a better knowledge of the
material culture of the Civil War soldier. This
bibliography is a work in progress and if you see a
scholarly works that I've missed, please contact me at:
of these articles are out of print and may require
contacting the publishers. More...
This is an
article published in 1865 as part of a serial for
Atlantic Monthly. It's author is an eighteen year old
seamstress who lived just outside Philadelphia. She
chronicles the hardships and decreasing pay wages of the
'government seamstress'. It speaks as much to the future
of women's rights in the workplace as it does the
deplorable actions of the contractors and arsenal tailors.
I hope you find this article educational and enlightening.